Regalia

The design brief requested a revitalisation of academic regalia to reflect an evolved sense of identity for the university. References to a sense of tradition and past were important along with current and future inflections of the university’s defining contribution in New Zealand. Design reflecting biculturalism and the bringing together of traditions and creative futures in education was essential. The regalia would have an inherent quality that was long lasting in aesthetic and in practical terms for wear in varied international and national capacities. The four designs for academic regalia for the Chancellor, Pro-Chancellor, Vice chancellor and University Registrar necessitated a hierarchical difference in design detailing.

Gown design: silhouette and design lines

It was a challenging brief to reference the lineage and history of the university and evolving culture in the garment design. The existing regalia had a narrative of academic traditions for Massey University’s beginnings and a strong visual identification to the Cambridge style gown. A number of academic gown styles were analysed from international and national universities. However it was considered important to develop the traditional gown shape to reference our own cultural position. The design group worked in regular consultation with Professor Ross Hemera. Many designs and iterations were drawn with the aims of emulating the qualities of the Korowai (Maori cloak), with qualities of status, cultural pride, prestige, honour, warmth and spiritual threads to the past. These designs commonly showed flowing, rounded and enveloping lines that simply wrapped the body with rich detailing and generous fullness. The design group was mindful of the apparel designs being primarily stage garments demanding a sense of celebration with distance viewing necessitating strong visual detailing as well as a need for inherent reverence and convention.

Initial design drawings were presented for consultation to the academic dignitaries (Dr Russell Ballard, Hon Steve Maharey, Professor Sir Mason Durie, Professor Ross Hemera, Stuart Morris). There were 3 groupings of design work presented ranging from highly embellished gowns with very traditional references to Cambridge style detailing to a set of gowns with very minimalist design lines and features.

After discussion, designs were selected and further design alterations were made and redrawn for further approval prior to sampling and prototyping.

Design Fabrication

Fabric samples for the main gown were sourced from national fabric wholesalers. The design group selected samples that were high quality wools. Pure wool was considered the only choice for reasons of supreme quality, longevity, wear comfort and a strong national identification. The selected fabric is pure Merino wool with a strong New Zealand story behind its creation. The superfine wool comes from Haldon Range, a farm in Marlborough and is soaked in a diluted mix of crystalline water and powdered Pounamu, Jade from the West coast, New Zealand. This fabric by Dormeuil is manufactured by Minova (UK) and produces a fine soft wool for tailoring. The Massey design group were able to commission a fabric weave unique to the Massey University gowns creating a strong reference to a New Zealand and University identity. After researching traditional and contemporary design translations of Maori patterns and consultation with Professor Ross Hemera, the symbol and concept of Poutama from the Tukutuku (decorative woven or carved panels in meeting house) was applied to a fabric weave. The construction of the Poutama symbolises the steps to progress in education and the endeavour to improve. In ancient stories it symbolises the ascent to receive the three baskets of knowledge from the gods. By creating the fabric weave for the pattern it was intentional to show subtle textural change with the symbolism forming an integral physical part of the main body of the garment.

More drawings and design development needed to consider the repeat nature of fabric production, garment construction and pattern placement and scale to apply to the garment body in order to achieve these intentions both technical and symbolic. Colours reflected Massey University colours with two rich variants of deep blue.

Embroideries

Embroideries were designed as further reference to a New Zealand and Massey University identity. After much research the final design was an application of the concept and Maori form of Whakarare, traditionally from carvings but interpreted for embroidery. The concept conveys taking a new direction and making changes which we considered to be a strong symbol for the university as a defining New Zealand university. The design interpretation was adapted for single placement, for multiple repeats and border application, whilst being constantly mindful of symbolic interpretations.

Gold and silver satin were additional fabrics applied to imbue traditions of richness and hierarchical detailing to the four academic positions. Varied widths and application of embroidered satin borders on the front neck and sleeve cape and sleeve hem borders designate the four positions held.

In addition to the symbolic embellishment the Massey University Coat of Arms has been applied in the form of the original gown embroideries to the gown sleeve capes. The Coat of Arms stands for the starting point of education under Massey University and its identity now.

 

Design Production

Patternmaking: Deb Cumming
Sampling: Mary Ellen Imlach
Final Gown production: Stuart Wadham

Patterns were made for the selected design specifications. A number of reiterations were made as designs were reassessed regarding proportions and the neckline borders, yoke and sleeve design line curvature was altered for fit, drape and aesthetics. The four gowns necessitated one size pattern processes to accommodate fit for all sizes and gender for current and subsequent wearers. The nature of the loose gown designs required adjustments in balance with weight draping from the shoulder for wearer comfort. Sampling was carried out at all stages alongside the pattern work to evaluate these aspects as well as fabric behaviour between varied weights of fabrics for outer body and inner linings. Final construction prototyping was carried out with final fabrics prior approval and the production of the final four gowns. The academic regalia were completed for Massey University graduation ceremonies in 2013.